It was on a recent revisit to Piatto Verde, on Dundee Terrace, that I was reminded of the existence of The Guru, just a few doors down. For years, it was the local curry house for one of my friends, so there were always frequent tales relayed, particularly about its naan bread. I’m sure I must have had takeaway from there, at some point, but it may well have been towards the end of a youthfully spirited evening.

The restaurant space is a little strange. Chairs and tables are smart, but then there’s an odd little bar, near the entrance, then a curious set of cabinets, just near the kitchen. It felt a little too much like neither one thing (a homely front room), nor the other (a smart restaurant space) so didn’t quite work for me.

From their extensive menu, which is strong on balti dishes, I started with chana puri (chickpeas with puffed fried bread) then a lamb balti pallak panerre (lamb with spinach and cheese). I added one of their famous house naans.

The starter was solidly good, with warmly spiced chickpeas and light, piping-hot bread. I was pleased with it.

The main course was all about the naan. It was an impressive beast. The balti was pretty good, too, with tender lamb chunks, but it was overshadowed by the massive, billowing bread.

The only downside is that naan isn’t a thing that improves with time; often quite the opposite. This was an enjoyable rendition, replete with garlic and coriander, but it became hard work towards the end.

So overall, The Guru is a reliable local balti house, where breads are clearly the star. Service is warmly welcoming and jovially friendly, so I’d be happy enough to pop back, next time I’m looking for a sail for my naan boat.

Scores
Blythe scores the Guru
3.5/5 for food
3/5 for presentation
2/5 for setting
3.5/5 for service
giving an overall 12/20

I ate: chana puri; lamb balti pallak panerre; special naan

I drank: lager

I wore: black suit

Total bill: £22.20