Restaurant Tim Raue

My oft employed method of wandering and bumping into likely looking places had never previously resulted in a 2 Michelin Star lunch, but on my wander home from Little Tibet I walked past a place that looked rather smart.

Restaurant Tim Raue was the place in question. Apparently it placed 37 in the 2018 50 Best Restaurants in the world. I’m definitely claiming it as a win for walking home rather than getting the train.

I couldn’t just stroll in to the place, of course, but they did have a table for lunch the following day so I made my booking and commenced looking forward to my first 2 Star dining experience.

Although I hadn’t watched it prior to going, many of you will be familiar with chef Raue from his episode on the Netflix series The Chef’s Table. I’m guessing this explains why the demographic of today’s lunchers was far younger than I’ve seen on previous Michelin outings.

This was reinforced with a contemporary and relaxed feel to the dining space, and a relaxed and welcoming approach to service. The front of house team were excellent throughout.

There was a good deal of flexibility to the menu, with options to lunch from anywhere between 48€ and 198€. I ended up somewhere in the middle for food and inevitably couldn’t resist a couple of dalliances with their excellent winelist.

My choice was for the six course lunch menu. Again there was a nice selection of options so I took a moment to contemplate, assisted by a splendid glass of sparkling Riesling.

My parade of dishes began with some excellent snacks with the roasted cashews highly memorable.

Next we had pomelo, coconut and roscoff onion arranged in a delicate broth. The crisp onion rings were sublime and the blend of flavours truly original and invigorating.

We moved on to dim sum of scallop and bamboo mushroom in a deeply flavourful chicken broth. This was an assault on the sense such was the complexity of the broth. It was quite magical.

Next we had Ikarimi salmon served in another fresh and lively broth with little dots of concentrated tomato. Again, this was splendid stuff.

We moved on to a couple of main features with first up the veal served with aged soy and sugar peas and topped with quinoa. This was a riot of flavour, but at its core was a beautfully cooked piece of meat. I could have eaten it all day long.

Tim Raue’s signature dish is an interpretation of Peking duck, served as a complex, three-part dish. First the duck is served quite classically but with Raue’s signature strong Asian spicing and balancing citrus to cut through the fatty meat. Then there was duck mousse topped with crisp duck skin and surrounded by various bright sauce dots. And finally there was a deep, dark duck broth. He likes his broths does chef Raue.

This was a worthy signature dish with really pleasing layers of flavour. I enjoyed it muchly.

We rounded things out with a rather retro looking little cheesecake presented as a fish filled with salted caramel butter and accompanied with bright yuzu. This was light and very well judged.

It ended an excellent meal full of joy, energy and no little splendour.

So overall, it was a privilege to dine at Restaurant Tim Raue. The food was all delivered to an outstandingly good standard with several memorable dishes and combos. Some of the presentation felt curiously retro but perhaps the intricacies of the interplay between Asian influences was wasted on me. It certainly merits its two Michelin stars as the food is exquisite and the innovation at its heart a joy to behold. Save the pennies and give it a visit next time you’re in Berlin.

Scores
Blythe scores Tim Raue
5/5 for food
4/5 for presentation
4.5/5 for setting
5/5 for service
giving an overall 18.5/20

I ate: snacks; pomelo, coconut & roscoff; dim sum “chicken stock, scallop & bamboo mushroom”; ikarimi salmon, tomato & star anis; peking duck interpretation; veal, pea & kamebishi soy 10 y; yuzu cheesecake & salted caramel beurre

I drank: sparkling Riesling, Josmeyer gerwurtztraminer, aged grenache

I wore: black suede loafers

Total bill: €156,50

Address: Rudi-Dutschke-Straße 26, 10969 Berlin, Germany

Written by BKR