The Launch of Borough

Our Beer Man reports

Borough is a new venture in Leith which occupies the premises on Henderson Street previously home to Norn and the Plumed Horse.

Its doors are now open – with an introductory 20 per cent discount on food bills until July 20.

Darren Murray – previously head chef at Norn – remains, and has been joined by former Fishers in the City manager Richard Kyle.

Explaining the ethos, Darren said: “Drawing inspiration from our own neighbourhood and others like it around the world Borough is inspired by the enclaves of individuality and creativity that bring people together over a shared experience.”

While I didn’t immediately identify any obvious Leith influence, it offers what is billed as a “modern European menu of bold, precise flavours.” Borough ditches starters, mains and desserts and offers up a selection of sweet and savoury dishes.

Prices range from £3 for olives and crudités up to £24 for monkfish, cauliflower and truffle – with most of the lighter “mains” clocking in at around £8.

Based on the smaller canapé-sized portions first-time quester Duncan and I sampled, presentation and flavour will be to the fore.

These morsels made it quite difficult to assess whether Borough lends itself to tapas-style dining or more traditional starter-and-main. I strongly suspect the team would resist any attempts at categorisation and emphasise flexibility.

Happily, I can report the food we sampled was accomplished and delicious.

The lamb consommé was notably delightful: a delicate yet intensely meaty broth with the sweet pop of peas and broad beans, and the faintest whisper of mint.

Although it’s a challenging location – close to the Shore but nearer Great Junction Street and unlikely to attract much passing trade – Borough feels sure-footed and confident.

Address: 50-54 Henderson Street, Edinburgh EH6 6DE  

Written by BKR