Katie’s Diner was a bit of an institution with its neon signs bathing a little corner of the Meadows in pink and blue. After a slow and tortuous decline it wound things up earlier in the year. The name lives on, at least in part, but Katie’s, which opened at the start of May is quite a different prospect.
I popped in on a sunny midweek evening to find the place refreshed and reimagined, both from a design and menu standpoint, with further changes to come in future weeks and months.
The menu is simple and to the point with seafood and steaks to the fore on the written list and daily changing salads on the board.
I opted for the mussels to start then followed with a ribeye steak. BYO has been retained at least for now and this is an option that should be considered as the current wine options are limited. L’Art du Vin are lined up to change that in coming weeks.
The mussels were soon on their way, delivered by the friendly and attentive waitress.
Served with bacon, creme fraiche and parsley, the Shetland mussels were of excellent quality and shown to best advantage. The accompanying herb bread toast was very good, too.
The main course steak – from local family butcher Malone’s – was, if anything, even better. It was the most accurate cooking on a rare steak I’ve seen in a long while. The chips were top notch and the side salad beautifully fragrant.
So overall, Katie’s served me one of the standout meals of 2017 so far. The good news is that this was very much a transitional menu for them, so great things could be afoot once they’re settled in. For now, they’re demonstrating the joy that can be derived from an understated focus on well-priced local ingredients. Visit soon and visit often.
Blythe scores Katie’s
4.5/5 for food
4/5 for presentation
4/5 for setting
4/5 for service
giving an overall 16.5/20
I ate: Shetland mussels, ribeye steak and chips
I drank: white wine, red wine, water
I wore: lilac and linen
Total bill: £34.90
Address: 12 Barclay Terrace, Edinburgh, EH10 4HP