La Partenope, on Dalry Road, had been an Italian favourite for many years, and although I didn’t have the best time on my review visit, I was sad to see it closed for a protracted refurbishment, then emerge recently under new ownership.

Now called Mia, the place is brighter and fresher, but with a similar layout and feel to the previous place. They retain one of the waiters from the old regime, but otherwise it’s a new broom.

Before I’d even sat down, the waiter had told me the specials of the day, both of which sounded good to me, so I ordered without even looking at the rest of the menu.

First to arrive was cream of broccoli soup, which looked rather on the ungenerous size, portion wise. It proved to be very good, with a nicely judged amount of garlic, but another ladleful was required.

The fillet of sea bream, served with mushrooms and pine nuts, and accompanying veg, was good, but as with the soup, it was rather drably presented. I’m a great fan of simple things done well and this was a good example, but there needs to be flair or a least consideration put in to the look of dishes. These were much as I’d serve at home, and not particularly in a “rustically charming” way.

So overall, Mia needs to tidy up the look of its dishes, but has the fundamental basis to build as strong a following as Partenope once had. I’ll be back again, in the future, to try more dishes from their menu.

Scores
Blythe scores Mia
3.5/5 for food
2/5 for presentation
3.5/5 for setting
3.5/5 for service
giving an overall 12.5/20

I ate: cream of broccoli soup; sea bream with pine nuts and mushroom

I drank: house white

I wore: blue denim trousers

Total bill: £10.50