Matching wine with food is, of course, a long-standing tradition – while beer has successfully elbowed its way into the culinary world in recent years.
Exterior
Whisky, though? Although regularly used in food, it’s less often paired with food in the way those other alcoholic beverages are. But the Scotch Malt Whisky Society is aiming to put that right by offering up a seasonal menu which pairs some fine drams with game.
And, on the basis of a special free preview offered to Lunchquest, it’s an interesting experiment which is largely successful.
It’s a while since I’ve visited the SMWS at the Vaults in Leith and it’s a lovely venue – intimate, comfortable and classy, perfectly carrying off the members’ club vibe.
SMWS ambassador Ryan McCafferty is a convivial host and talks me through the menu and the accompanying whiskies.
Tapas and whisky
All bottles at the SMWS are effectively anonymous – although some research online can quickly identify them – so patrons should be guided by the tasting notes on the bottle or, of course, their palate. The only clue is the numbers – the first is the distillery, the second is the number of casks the society has purchased from them.
First up is the 3.220 – described as “sweet shop joy and lingering kiss” – which is alongside the guinea fowl and parsley broth. Sampled raw, the whisky – the first fill of a bourbon cask – completely overpowers the delicate broth. But diluted, it opens up and is a strong match for the satisfying savoury soup.
The second, however, is less successful. Even diluted, I think the 35.116 batters the rabbit rilette. I enjoy the delicate taste of the meat and the crunch of the crouton, but it’s far too subtle to compete with the dram. The accompanying cornichon offers something for the whisky to push up against, but that also relegates the rabbit to the background.
Interior
30.80 is another ex-bourbon cask whisky, and is paired with the wild mallard bresaola. The soft and flavourful meat is good with the whisky – which has accents of brambles and honey – and really comes to life with the orange and fennel salad.
But, for me, the last of the pairings is the most successful. The mini venison burger is overcooked and therefore a little dry – perhaps understandable, given its diminutive scale – but the hit of the powerful game is a wonderful match with the 73.66. This whisky is pushing at an open door for me, as it’s aged in sherry casks – and its sweet, warm, treacly delights are the pick of the night for me, and ideal for bringing the burger to life.
It’s a nice little menu, and good value for £25 – the whiskies alone would cost more than that – but I would question whether the small bites are sufficient to soak up four cask-strength drams, even diluted. I thoroughly enjoyed the food and the whisky, but left this impressive venue a little light-headed. Stretching it out over a relaxing evening – and perhaps spacing it out with soft drinks – would be welcome.
The Glorious 12 rare whisky and game tapas experience runs at the two SMWS Edinburgh venues until October 20, and is open to non-members.
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