I’d been meaning to visit Taisteal – where Field Grill House and before that Buffalo Grill traded on Raeburn Place – for quite a while. I was glad to tick it off my list on a lunchtime visit towards the latter part of the festive season.
Chef Gordon Craig, who was previous an integral part of the Field team, has struck out on his own, drawing upon his travels for the eclectic spirit that drives the menu.
I found the place quiet to begin with but increasingly busy as their well-priced and eye-catching menu drew in a steady stream of passing trade.
Taking up station at the window table I was left to contemplate the menu and the dining room. It remains a slightly awkward space but it’s being used to good advantage. The artwork showcases local artists with pieces available for sale.
My menu perusal quickly settled upon the Jerusalem artichoke pannacotta to start followed by the roast hake for main. I added a glass of bright gavi di gavi for wine accompaniment.
First came bread. This was a tightly crumbled, cakey affair served with aromatic dill and parsley butter.
The pannacotta soon followed looking extremely stylish. With a nicely judged veggie haggis scotch egg and sauterne golden raisins as accompaniments, this with a highly accomplished dish. The artichoke crisps atop the pannacotta were superb.
The main course maintained that standard with an accurately cooked piece of white fish topped with crisped onions, on a bed of baby leeks, with further onion variations in the saucing and chive croquettes. Again, this was assured stuff from a chef operating at the top of his game.
I rounded things out with decent coffee and was left to reflect on a really good start to the reviewing year.
So overall, it was very pleasing to find Taisteal on such excellent form. Both dishes I ate were of splendid quality with the deft blend of flavours and textures likely to live long in the memory. I’d strongly recommend it to you and look forward to visiting again soon to sample their dinner menu.
Blythe scores Taisteal
4.5/5 for food
4.5/5 for presentation
4/5 for setting
4/5 for service
giving an overall 17/20
I ate: Jerusalem artichoke pannacotta with veggie haggis scotch egg; roast hake
I drank: water, white wine
I wore: ice white action footwear
Total bill: £25
Address: 1 Raeburn Place, Edinburgh EH4 1HU