Another day, another new burger joint. At least BRGR, freshly arrived from Glasgow, represented a replacement for one that had gone before, taking over the premises recently vacated by the Wee Burger Kitchen, rather than adding to our already saturated provision.
I visited on their second day of business, slightly by mistake, having found myself in need of a substantial feed in this neck of the woods after much aimless wandering around the town. But I visited the excellent Bread Meats Bread shortly after they opened in Edinburgh, so this was scarcely a major deviation from my modus operandi.
The interior brings together the worst excesses of current burger bar design. Rough wood panels, prison cages and light fittings that look like they’re made from old milk churns dominate. With intrusive music and loud shouts of “service” from the kitchen, this is a truly ghastly environment.
This was compounded by rather vague service. There were plenty of staff members in evidence, with six or seven managing a space that can pack in around fifty diners, but things were in need of the kind of polish that will likely come with time and training.
Presumably as an introductory offer (but one that’s still available at time of publication), all burgers are £5 on Saturday and Sunday, and £4 Monday to Friday. I chose the cheeseburger (usually £6.50) and felt brave enough to give their poutine a try.
Both arrived fairly promptly with the burger wrapped in foil and the poutine in a cardboard tray.
Poutine is never going to be a looker and this one was no exception. The cheese curds were pretty good but the chips were a soggy and awful mess. The gravy was too viscous and salty, but I imagine this is often the case with this style of sauce.
The burger put me in mind of Five Guys, sadly. The plastic cheese was an abomination, the bun really poor, and the burger dry and lifeless. I quite liked the little tub of BRGR sauce but it couldn’t save the day.
So overall, BRGR offers nothing new or interesting. It’s a good deal poorer than the Wee Burger Kitchen was. Perhaps it will improve in time, but given the oppressive interior and totally shitty food I sampled today I doubt I’ll be back to find out.
I ate: big cheese, poutine
I drank: water
I wore: black
Total bill: £8
Address: 4 Nicolson Street, EH8 9FT