I’d visited Checkpoint in August when it was still in its Festival pop-up phase. I’d been very impressed and knew they had ambitions of opening on a more permanent basis once they’d had time to reflect upon the lessons learned from their initial run. I popped by to check out their offering on a sunnily chilly lunchtime.

The space is the same as before. It’s spare, smart and rather stylish. I resisted the compulsion to dine in the shipping container having done so previously. It was lovely to see a familiar face in the shape of my chum Sarah, who kept service running quite beautifully throughout.

The coffee is by Roundsquare, a roastery that had been along at the recent Edinburgh Coffee Festival. I tried the espresso, to start, which didn’t convince me 100% but it’s always good to see another coffee to add to the diversity of provision across the city.

From their broad menu, which remains much the same as during August, I chose one of their bowls and a dish from their breakfast selection, which is served until 5. I opted for smoked fish overload with a starter of seafood bisque and smoked haddock followed by Arbroath smokie orzo kedgeree.

The bisque arrived first looking neat and tidy. It proved zingily good eating with profuse chunks of delicious smoked fish in a bright and velvety soup. I was impressed.

The main course was another dish that packed a punch. The orzo pasta in lieu of the more classic rice gave the texture of the kedgeree a different twist, which worked well enough. The smokie was extremely good and the dish was very brightly seasoned with a good kick of chilli. It was accomplished stuff.

So overall, I was really pleased to see Checkpoint on such good form. Everything was delivered with verve and skill. The menu offers excellent value and really smart range of options. I look forward to many future visits and would recommend it to you.

Scores
Blythe scores Checkpoint
4/5 for food
4/5 for presentation
4/5 for setting
4/5 for service
giving an overall 16/20

I ate: seafood bisque, smoked haddock, potato; Arbroath smokie and orzo kedgeree

I drank: espresso, water

I wore: maroon shirt

Total bill: £13.50