It’s a place I’d spotted on previous walks to this north western part of the city, but this was the first time I was passing at a reasonable lunchtime hour.On Sunday they serve dishes to suit a broad range of tastes. Their a la carte includes breakfast served throughout the day, a selection of lunch options and a set menu with two courses and a glass of wine for £16 and three for £20. I was happy to go with the two-course set option.
To start I chose their soup of the day, which was an intriguing sounding red pepper, lentil and tarragon. It proved to be an accomplished dish with judicious use of tarragon in a oil dressing, which also gave the dish quite a smart appearance.The main course featured a selection of porky treats with slow cooked smoked pork belly, a braised pig cheek and a black pudding and potato pave. The cheek was deliciously tender and the pave rather stylish. I’ve had better pork belly, but it still packed a good amount of flavour and contributed positively to the dish.
So overall, I was impressed by the Suburban Pantry. It has a smart, farmshop feel to it, not unlike The Pantry in Stockbridge. Service was friendly and welcoming making it a very enjoyable visit. I’d be happy to visit again and would recommend it to you, too.
Blythe scores the Suburban Pantry
4/5 for food
3.5/5 for presentation
3.5/5 for service
4/5 for setting
giving an overall 15/20
I ate: red pepper, lentil and tarragon soup; smoked pork belly, braised cheek, black pudding and potato pave, green beans
I drank: house red, water
I wore: dishevelled Sunday garb
Total bill: £16