One of the great benefits of being back on the Sunday walking trail is the opportunity to try some places that are just a little outside my usual routes around the city. In that regard it was great to finally give the Suburban Pantry, in Blackhall, a try.

It’s a place I’d spotted on previous walks to this north western part of the city, but this was the first time I was passing at a reasonable lunchtime hour.

On Sunday they serve dishes to suit a broad range of tastes. Their a la carte includes breakfast served throughout the day, a selection of lunch options and a set menu with two courses and a glass of wine for £16 and three for £20. I was happy to go with the two-course set option.

To start I chose their soup of the day, which was an intriguing sounding red pepper, lentil and tarragon. It proved to be an accomplished dish with judicious use of tarragon in a oil dressing, which also gave the dish quite a smart appearance.

The main course featured a selection of porky treats with slow cooked smoked pork belly, a braised pig cheek and a black pudding and potato pave. The cheek was deliciously tender and the pave rather stylish. I’ve had better pork belly, but it still packed a good amount of flavour and contributed positively to the dish.

So overall, I was impressed by the Suburban Pantry. It has a smart, farmshop feel to it, not unlike The Pantry in Stockbridge. Service was friendly and welcoming making it a very enjoyable visit. I’d be happy to visit again and would recommend it to you, too.

Scores
Blythe scores the Suburban Pantry
4/5 for food
3.5/5 for presentation
3.5/5 for service
4/5 for setting
giving an overall 15/20

I ate: red pepper, lentil and tarragon soup; smoked pork belly, braised cheek, black pudding and potato pave, green beans

I drank: house red, water

I wore: dishevelled Sunday garb

Total bill: £16