Curry in a Kilt brings another local voice to the Festival pop-up circuit. In a fittingly international fashion, they’re showcasing one of the great South African street food fusion dishes, bunny chow.

Service counter

Stall

For those uninitiated (of which I was one until a recent visit to Shebeen), bunny chow is essentially a hollowed out roll filled with curry. It comes with a little hat, which you use as a improvised spooning tool.

Calling bunny chow “curry in a kilt” is a very smart piece of marketing, although the counter chap did still make the point that there’s a little demure reluctance on the part of patrons until they get a look at someone trying the thing.

Bunny chow!

Bunny chow!

In keeping with my healthy approach to Festival dining, I opted for the veggie jhal bhuna. Dishes come in two sizes, which I would characterise as “snack”(£4) and “meal”(£6).

With my bunny all chowed up, I popped along to a leaning post, to start shoving things faceward.

Getting the outstandingly good bread casing, made by the baking maestros at Manna House, right must have taken them a good wee while, but it was time well spent. We helped Union of Genius with their experiments with bread soup bowls, a while back, so know that getting things right can be tricky.

Menu board

Menu board

The curry filling was tasty, with a good balance of warm and aromatic spices, but it was the bread that was the star, for me.

So I’d recommend a visit to Curry in a Kilt, when you find yourself near George Street, perhaps sipping an Aperol at the Spiegeltent. I look forward to trying the other bunny chow purveyor, in George Square gardens, to compare.4 stars 2

Written by BKR