January 29, 2019 Uncategorized No Comments

Jones


For my final night in town I headed to Jones, a casual wine bar bistro in the 11e arrondisement. Previously having been called Bones during the tenure of the previous chef, I wasn’t sure what I’d find in its current incarnation.

I found a well-appointed and quite stylish neighbourhood bistro with a busy throng of punters reflecting a decent mix of locals, people in town for fashion week, and tourists.

I took up a seat at the bar and contemplated their small plates menu over a good negroni.

The list featured brief descriptions of dishes that weren’t particularly helpful. I sought help from the very good front of house team who steered me towards three dishes to begin with.

First up was a dish of celeriac remoulade topped with a crumbed and deep-fried egg. The yolk could have been a trifle more oozy but it was otherwise quite a good dish, with the celeriac ribbons somewhat in the style of noodles.

I followed with a veal heart tartare served with textures of Jersusalem artichoke and caper berries. This looked a touch messy and the heart was rather too rustically chopped but it was another decent dish.

We then had pieces of bonito marinated in miso with pine nuts and fermented carrots. This was the best presented dish but again didn’t quite hit a mark beyond being solidly good.

I rounded things out with good cheese board with toasted hazelnuts. Wine had been some middling natural wines that were in the realms of interesting rather than delicious.

Overall, Jones served me a good meal with some promising signs, but it felt in need of significant refinement. It slightly suffered from the menu putting me in mind of both DC – with its small plates with a couple of large sharer dishes – and Melbourne. I found both of those cities offered far greater range and quality than what I sampled in Paris generally and at Jones specifically. 

It was, however, the most reasonably priced dinner I found in town so it’s worth a visit as I can imagine they’re possibly capable of better than they showed me on this visit.

Scores
Blythe scores Jones
3.5/5 for food
3.5/5 for presentation 
4/5 for service
4/5 for setting
giving an overall 15/20

I ate: celeriac remoulade with deep fried egg, veal heart tartare, bonito with fermented carrot, cheese

I drank: negroni, sauvignon/semillon Bergerac natural white, Italian natural wine, sweet red, water

I wore: Mr Black pin

Total bill: €76

Written by BKR