January 6, 2019 Uncategorized No Comments

Husk

In the pantheon of American restaurants that have meant stuff and things, Sean Brock’s Husk is right up there. Even since Brock’s departure, it remains a core reason why people come to Charleston and in some ways it was great to visit after his tenure to gain an insight into how the legacy/transition has worked, which isn’t something we see too often in UK restaurants.

At a basic level, some of Brock’s recipes – or more accurately some of his gramdmother’s – remain. And the commitment to showcasing the gems and forgotten favourites of the southern larder persists under chef Travis Grimes, who has worked at the restaurant since it opened in 2010.

I visited the classic southern mansion dining space on a Monday night and found the place packed out with tables turning at a slick rate.

Service throughout was a strength with well-considered recommendations and very friendly and attentive work from my main server.

The menu made me sad I’d not come with a posse as I basically wanted to eat all of it. After some advice and guidance, I settled upon the fried chicken skins to start then followed with the duck leg confit.

Before the food arrived I sampled their house Manhattan which was as good a version of the classic cocktail as I’ve ever been served. They take their drinks offering very seriously and it showed in abundance.

The chicken skins soon arrived. Topped with a pimento cheese ranch style dressing, and finely chopped scallions, it was in the realms of elegant dirty. I loved it and crunched my way through it in record time.

The main course was a well executed duck leg confit with highly enjoyable sweet potato puree. It had good texture and flavour brightness from toasted pecans, satsuma pieces and raisins. I liked it.

I rounded things out with good French press coffee and a highly interesting southern amaro. This was quite light and sweet, somewhat akin to Montenegro, with some fresh local botanicals in the herbological mix.

Husk very much lived up to expectations. I feel I must return for more visits in the future and will do my best to bring a crew to help out with menu sampling. Make sure to plan your trip soon and please invite me to come along.

Scores
Blythe scores Husk
4.5/5 for food
4/5 for presentation
4.5/5 for service
4/5 for setting
giving an overall 17/20

I ate: fried chicken skins, duck leg confit

I drank: aged Manhattan, torrontes, malbec, water, Southern amaro, French press coffee

I wore: action footwear

Total bill: $111.70

Address: 76 Queen Street, Charleston SC, 29401

Written by BKR