The Hearth & Hound

While I’ve been enjoying Downtown LA, I thought it sensible to explore a little further afield on my first night in the city. Accordingly, I hopped in a cab and headed to Sunset Boulevard for dinner at The Hearth & Hound.

Set back from the main street, with a beautiful courtyard out front, the interior features exposed beams for a stylish and homely feel. The hearth of the restaurant’s name is a big open kitchen fire range in a similar style to the excellent Pasture, although on a rather larger scale.

I was shown to a smart corner booth and brought the food and drinks list. I ordered an aperitif of manzanilla sherry and tonic with rhubarb and cinnamon. It was refreshing and entirely delicious.

My friendly and attentive waitress advised that they had an extra starter of kanpachi (amberjack) collar which is always a favourite with me so I readily opted for that. I added the hanger steak for main with a side dish of broccolini with chickpeas.

The starter soon arrived and was a flavour-packed dish of excellently enjoyable simplicity. The fish skin had a good char from the fire and the flesh was beautifully moist. It was top quality stuff.

The steak packed a similar flavour punch with highly tender meat again benefitting from good charring. The accompanying chimichurri was as good as any I sampled in South America. Sunchokes (Jerusalem artichokes) added good backbone and the broccolini was an excellent accompaniment.

I didn’t have room for dessert so I just had very good espresso and a shot of Fernet Branca.

Overall, The Hearth & Hound was a very good choice for an insight into warm and welcoming Californian dining. If I lived in town, I can see this being a go-to staple for dinner with friends as it’s a very smart place with highly accomplished cooking. Add it to your list for the next time you’re in LA.

Scores
Blythe scores The Hearth & Hound
4.5/5 for food
4/5 for presentation
4/5 for setting
4/5 got service
giving an overall 16.5/20

I ate: kanpachi collar, hanger steak, broccolini

I drank: sherry n tonic, glinavos/vlahiko blend 2013 (Ioannina), Fernet Branca, espresso

I wore: olive shirt

Total bill: $114.98

Address: 6530 Sunset Boulevard, Los Angeles 90028

Written by BKR