Having dined in highly disappointing fashion at much-vaunted Tegui the night before – I will spare you the details – I was keen for my final dinner in the city to be somewhere pretty simple and welcoming. I went against convention by choosing a seafood place, Oviedo, on Beruti.

Prior to that I went to investigate a cocktail bar called Floreria Atlantico meaning that I arrived at Oviedo a ball of sweat after a tear across town.

Oviedo is very old school. Trading since 1986 it’s the quintessential linen tablecloth, silver service place. Not only does it feel draped in a different era, it feels trapped on the wrong continent. This is the Cafe Royal restaurant in Edinburgh, a Paris bistro, maybe a classic Roman osteria.

In some regards that was quite refreshing after the fiery excesses of the parrillas. Oviedo is elegant and stylish, while at the same time feeling like a place you’ve probably been coming to for years with your uncle Diego and auntie Elizavieta.

Indeed there were two large family parties dining when I was there in enjoyably irascible fashion.

The honour of looking after the table with the garrishly dressed scotsman was clearly not a strong draw so the waiting staff took a moment or two to decide who was going to be undertipped. They eventually warmed to me when I said something was muy bueno.

Things began with a couple of different types of crisp bread and some little trout terrine toasts. The fish was really excellent.

My starter was a traditional ceviche topped with additional sauce at the table. This was a plentiful mountain of deliciously prepared fish. It packed all the expected zing and the fish was beautifully fresh. It was a good curtain-raiser ahead of what I expect will be a deluge of excellent ceviche in Lima.

My main course was a pretty massive piece of wreckfish served with huge juicy prawn tails and buttery cous cous. It was a really enjoyable dish.

I rounded things out with the inevitable and truly ghastly Nespresso. I’d forgotten to enquire before automatically ordering an espresso to finish my meal. Boy was it bad.

So overall, Oviedo was a real classic place for a last dinner in the city. I enjoyed it although it will eventually need to update its look and approach, not to say some of the menu, before it becomes completed fossilized. For a slice of classic colonial nostalgia, it’s well worth adding to your itinerary.

Blythe scores Oviedo
4/5 for food
3.5/5 for presentation
4/5 for setting
3.5/5 for service
giving an overall 15/20

I ate: trout terrine, ceviche, chernia con langostino

I drank: pink bubbles, sauv blanc, chardonnay, sparkly water, shit coffee

I wore: action footwear

Total bill: 1895 pesos

Address: Beruti 2602, Buenos Aires

Written by BKR