It’s 22 hours since I sat down to lunch at Mishiguene and I’m still full. Rarely have I been so voluminously fed or has a cliché – of the Jewish being feeders – been so comprehensively reinforced.
I believe Mishiguene translates as something like a crazy and that could definitely be used to describe the eclectic menu. It is a menu that in some way embodies the diaspora – where there are Jews, there are dishes represented on the menu. Just within my selection of dishes there were things I’d identify as New York, middle eastern, Mediterranean, eastern European and Spanish. And reader, I ate them all.
The restaurant was alive with the music of the accordion and the clarinet throughout giving the place a pace and atmosphere that was relentlessly upbeat. I kinda loved it.
I was seated at the bar and quickly settled upon the six course tasting selection with paired drinks rather than working out dish descriptions that I would likely have struggled to understand even in their English translation.
The food opened with a bread basket including pitta, a bagel and some onion bread accompanied by onion puree topped with chicken skin. This was all good stuff, as was the accompanying gin n tonic.
We then had a little palate livener of fresh cheese with a glass of beetroot espuma. The beetroot was laced with a fair amount of horseradish so did indeed blast my mouth into life.
To follow we had a salad of watermelon with goat’s cheese, basil and olives. This was fresh and deeply delicious but was the first inkling of the eating challenge to follow as it was a very generous portion.
We then had a very elegant dish that sort of deconstructed classic baba ghanoush. On a bed of zingy tomato sauce and olive oil, a small roast smoked aubergine was topped with tahini. It was excellent, but again massive.
Next we were transported to Poland for a classic dish of pierogi – here called varenikes – topped with chicken skin. These were hearty and very tasty.
And then we had a dish of spicy beef served in really far too much hummus. Good crunch was provided by toasted chickpeas. It was very pleasing but my belt was starting to strain.
Imagine my delight to see a massive hunk of pastrami in a rich meaty sauce arrive accompanied by fregola pasta. The pastrami was amazing but I was now practically in a coma.
After this it was suggested I might want to pause before dessert. I reckon I would have either fallen asleep or turned to stone if there was any pause so I ploughed on.
I opted for the tart a mebrillo which today was goat’s cheese and peach. It showed some really skilled pastry work and was deeply satisfying stuff even for Mr Creosote with no sweet tooth.
And they actually served proper coffee rather than Nespresso shit, so they rocket ahead in my estimations beyond other restaurants in the city. Their paired drinks in general were very strong, kept things simple, and offered a good showcase of regional wines.
So overall, Mishiguene was a huge feed and a huge amount of fun. I enjoyed everything I ate and really enjoyed the experience of dining in this exuberant oddity of a place. It’s a must-visit when your travels next bring you to Buenos Aires.
Blythe scores Mishiguene
4.5/5 for food
4/5 for presentation
4.5/5 for service
4.5/5 for setting
giving an overall 17.5/20
I ate: tasting menu
I drank: paired wines
I wore: action linens
Total bill: 2900 pesos
Address: Lafinur 3368, Buenos Aires