I was keen to include some fine dining on my brief exploration of Mexico City so booked for dinner at Lorea. Having warmed up for dinner with a visit to Licoreria Limantour, I arrived in excellent spirits after the short walk through Roma Norte.
I found a bustling upstairs dining room packed to the gunwales with appreciative diners. I was delighted to be shown to a seat at the kitchen bar with an excellent view of the chefs at work.
I was brought a list of what I was about to eat then the fun and games began. Snacks of excellent shrimp waffle, charred sweet potato, and local squash with lightly pickled tongue were accompanied by a pair of different wheat beers. This was a strong start.
Two more snacks followed with outstanding crumbed soft shell crab and slightly less successful pistachio and mint mochi.
Next we had house sourdough bread with a yeast butter that had a very pleasing marmite note to it.
The first dish proper was pig jowl with morel and purslane. This was elegant and accomplished cooking.
The catch of the day course was amberjack served with a fish bone foam and asparagus. It was splendid.
I then had my second encounter with huitlacoche, this time served natively on the corn cob. This was an enjoyable curiosity. This was matched with genmaicha tea which worked very well indeed.
The main course of slow-cooked lamb with crisp roast potato and greenery was a comforting favourite.
We then had a really interesting palate cleanser of clear tarragon broth. I write frequently about tarragon’s ability to overpower. I think it may have found a home for me as it was wonderfully fresh and cleansing in this role which so often falls to zingy sorbets. I loved it.
Three desserts followed with a palate-pleasing pickled hibiscus in strawberry, enjoyable honeycomb with yoghurt, and finally a curious pear creation hidden beneath a pyramid. These were creative and fun to eat.
I rounded things out with a whisky – an Auchentoshan – at the sommelier’s insistence.
Overall, I really enjoyed my dinner at Lorea. The place had a very approachable atmosphere and the food had heart and charm. It’s a place I’d strongly recommend to you next time you’re in Mexico City.
Blythe scores Lorea
4.5/5 for food
4/5 for presentation
4.5/5 for setting
4.5/5 for service
giving an overall 17.5/20
I ate: tasting menu
I drank: paired drinks
I wore: linens
Total bill: $2900
Address: Sinaloa 141, Roma Norte, Ciudad de Mexico