With some top-end places booked and ample opportunity to explore cheaper street food options, I was keen to see what a mid-market Mexico City restaurant looked like. After a little searching of the interwebs, I hit upon Comedor Jacinta as a likely spot.
In a smart neighbourhood called Polanco, Jacinta is the casual bistro offshoot from Edgar Nuñez, the chap behind popular fine dining spot Sud 777. It certainly looked the part as I weaved through their outdoor terrace seating to the inside where I was given my choice of tables – I chose indoors – by the friendly front of house team.
My eye was immediately caught by a cocktail that looked to be a mezcal bloody mary so I ordered that to start while I had a think about what I might eat.
I eventually settled upon some dishes that they didn’t have available so my quick rethink saw me open with local mushroom soup followed by on-the-bone pork in green molé.
First some crisp tortilla shells with guacamole and sour cream were brought for munching. The soup soon followed. The broth was light and rather stronger on butter and herbs than mushroom flavour but it was packed with stylishly diced mushroom pieces so made for decent enough eating.
The main course was a notch or two better. Two huge hunks of pork were delivered along with fresh corn tortillas, beans and rice for taco self-assembly. This made for extremely susbtantial eating.
I put together a couple of tacos before focussing my attention more directly on the meat. The tortillas were of good quality and I made remarkably little mess given my general incompetence at this sort of thing.
The pork was tender and flavour-packed. The molé – as seems to be the way with the cornerstone sauce of much of Mexican cooking – was pretty dense and grainy, and while it packed good aromatics didn’t particularly rock my world.
I had a decent espresso to round things out and then was on my way back to explore the nearby parks and gardens.
Overall, Jacinta seemed a smart place, a spot clearly more strongly frequented by locals than tourists so a good find from my perspective, but didn’t overly convince me with the dishes I tried. Perhaps I didn’t order as well as I should have. It’s the kind of place to come and hangout over a drink or two and munch a nice snack with friends, so perhaps I’ll come back and give it another look under those circumstances.
Blythe scores Jacinta
3.5/5 for food
3.5/5 for presentation
4/5 for service
4/5 for setting
giving an overall 15/20
I ate: mushroom soup, bone-in pork fillet
I drank: mezcal bloody maria, lager, water, espresso
I wore: linens
Total bill: $555
Address: Virgilio 40, Polanco, Ciudad de Mexico