For my final meal in the city, I headed to Bæst. I had a pint or two at Mikkeler & Friends beforehand as seemed appropriate before toddling down the road and crossing the threshold of the buzzing restaurant.
Again there was a slight sense of chaos about service with an absolute parade of different people stopping by my table throughout the meal. They generally has massively helpful and interesting things to say or bring, so it worked very well.
Bæst is all about local and organic produce. They have their own farm from which the make lots of their own products – cheese, charcuterie etc – in the building which also houses their restaurant. The core of their menu is pizza but that scarcely covers the breadth of excellence they offer.
They offer an “experience menu” which basically brings you everything they do plus a couple of slices of pizza to top things off. This sounded pretty good to me.
I started with a little snack of their house nduja served with crackers. I accompanied it with their house cocktail, a spritz. Both were excellent with the nduja a very generous portion of excellent quality spicy sausage.
Then came the start of a barrage of dishes showcasing all of the Baest wares. The charcuterie selection brought a porky terrine with delicious mustard, some beef and pork salami, some outstanding ham, and a delicious potted pork. But the star of the show was the bresaola which was the best I’ve ever tasted by a country mile.
Alongside this was had excellent pickles, then their own burrata and mozzarella. The cheese was a creamy delight unlike anything I’d eaten before, with so much greater depth of flavour than the splendid burrata I had at Roscioli.
But trumping even these stars was a salad topped with grated cured egg yolk and parmesan which was just stratospherically good. And then there was a salad of Swiss chard and ricotta. And to top everything the potatoes with gremolata were amazing.
I needed a break to compose myself before the pizza arrived. First up was a margherita slice. The dough was splendidly light with just the right amount of spring to the crust. The tomato sauce was as good as I’ve ever had and with more of their excellent mozzarella, this was an absolute dream.
The final slice featured deliciously fresh courgettes with chilli and both fresh and dried ricotta. It was magnificent.
So overall, Bæst served me one of the best meals I’ve ever eaten. To produce such a range of excellent dishes, from their own ingredients, from their own farm is bordering on the miraculous. It’s worth a trip to Copenhagen just to come here and when you do order everything.
Blythe scores Bæst
5/5 for food
4.5/5 for presentation
5/5 for setting
4.5/5 for service
giving an overall 19/20
I ate: nduja and crackers, experience menu
I drank: rose wine, spritz, water
I wore: wine-matching shirt
Total bill: 730DKK
Address: Guldbergsgade 29, 2200 København