Although the vast majority of my time in Copenhagen was filled with stuff that was completely new to me – it was my first visit, after all – one meal had something of the familiar about it.
In September last year, Fiskebar’s head chef Jamie Lee came over to Edinburgh for a weekend at the Edinburgh Food Studio. It was an excellent meal but it never really occurred to me that I would soon end up eating at the restaurant in Copenhagen, but so it proved on a sunny Saturday lunchtime.
Just over from where I’d dined splendidly the previous night at Nose 2 Tail, Fiskebar likewise offered both inside and outside seating. Again I sat inside which gave me a good view of kitchen activity and the smart tubular fishtank that must be fun to sit and stare at.
Service was a strength throughout with clear information imparted and confident recommendations offered when I asked for them.
Primary among these was clarification on what today’s chef’s choice lunch constituted. It turned out to be a starter of raw brill followed by hake, then a dessert of strawberries. This sounded great. I couldn’t resist starting with their oysters selection opting for one each of their five varieties.
This brought together papillon, fines romegous, tarbouriech, gillardeau and local limfjord oysters in a simply presented dish served with a dill oil topped vinaigrette.
These were excellently fresh and briny. The local limfjord was notably flat and shallow, packing the most delicate flavour. It was a really satisfying opener, with the accompanying cremant from Jura working very well.
Next we had my starter of raw brill with smoked mussel cream, picked onions and little crisp circles of crunch. The rolls of brill were filled with dill for a characteristic Nordic flavour profile. It was a very bonnie dish that really hit the spot.
Next was a pan-fried piece of hake served with corn and mushroom purees, with sides of local baby potatoes and roasted baby corn. Again this was excellent cooking with fresh, local and seasonal ingredients.
The dessert of strawberries had good textural combination with a mousse, macerated fruit and a granita with some crunchy crumble. It was simple, elegant and very satisfying. It rounded things out on a very high note.
So overall, Fiskebar served me an outstanding meal packed with freshness and charm. Everything was delivered to a hugely impressive standard. No trip to Copenhagen would be complete without a stop here.
Blythe scores Fiskebar
4.5/5 for food
4.5/5 for presentation
4/5 for setting
4.5/5 for service
giving an overall 17.5/20
I ate: oysters, brill, hake, strawberries
I drank: bubbles, white wine
I wore: orange
Total bill: 650 DKK
Address: Flæsketorvet 100, 1711 København