I’d been given a tip by regular guest quester Freya that I should give Clipstone a look when I was in London. Although I’m often fairly shit at acting on recommendations, the promise of wine on keg was too intriguing not to investigate.
The restaurant has the feel of a sharing is caring type small plates place, but the menu is set up as a focussed a la carte, much in the same way as The Little Chartroom, which is where the recommendation was made.
In additon there were a range of snacks to open. I was keen on many of them, but settled upon the radishes with anchovy cream. These proved an outstandingly good start with earthy, crisp radishes and a sauce that packed good anchovy notes without being overpowering in any direction.
I accompanied this with a firecracker chilled gamay for the keg. It was completely splendid and if left to my own devices I would have spent the afternoon glugging it.
Next upon was a starter of tuna ceviche served with smoked creme fraiche and sweetcorn puree. Again, this was skilfully balanced and deeply satisfying with the tuna of excellent quality.
I tried their house white with this, again from the keg. This had a light effervescence to it, presumably a very welcome kegging spin-off benefit, that worked very well.
For main I had the Cornish bream served with leeks, celeriac puree and gooseberry sauce. The bream stood up well to the accompaniments, but I couldn’t help feeling that this would have been better as a mackerel dish.
The cheese was a young Comte served with splendid sesame and fennel seed crackers. It was an extremely pleasing conclusion to another excellent meal from this very productive London trip.
So overall, it’s a strong thumbs up for Clipstone and a similarly positive verdict for wine on keg. I’m not sure where in Edinburgh does the requisite volume to give kegged wine of this impressive quality a go, but I’d like to think there was somewhere. Whatever the case, you should definitely give Clipstone a look next time you’re in these parts and looking for interesting wines with high quality, well-considered food.
Blythe scores Clipstone
4.5/5 for food
4/5 for presentation
4.5/5 for service
4/5 for setting
giving an overall 17/20
I ate: radishes and anchovy cream, tuna ceviche, Cornish bream, young comte
I drank: keg wines
I wore: linens
Total bill: £56.25
Address: 5 Clipstone Street, London W1W 6BB