Where Baan Thai used to trade on Iona Street, Hungry Wolf has recently taken over. Offering burgers, pizzas and some additional intriguing items I thought I’d give it an early visit to see what it was all about.
Still in soft launch when I visited, it was particularly encouraging to see signs seeking feedback on every aspect of their offering and the owners were also keen to hear ideas for improvement throughout my visit.
The main thing that had lured me in was talk of a Georgian cheese boat. What, pray tell, was that? It turns out that khachapuri is the national dish of Georgia where the brothers that own and operate the place are from.
After the fact Googling revealed that they are making Adjarian khachapuri, with an open dough boat filled with three types of cheese then topped with a partly raw egg and melted butter.
The idea is that you mix the egg with the cheese creating a sort of gooey emulsion rather than a scramble. You then use the dough boat to dunk in and enjoy.
When first I arrived, though, the dough for the khachapuri wasn’t quite ready so I tried their cheeseburger while I waited. I hadn’t had lunch so a big two course dinner seemed just about permissible.
The burger was cooked to order and topped with cheese, lettuce, onion and burger sauce. Served in a brioche bun, it was suitably succulent. The only piece of feedback was that the patty could have been slightly flattened out to better meet the dimensions of the bun, making things just a little easier to eat by the shove faceward method, but this was a minor quibble with a very good burger.
The accompanying chips were very light and crisp.
After this, the boat dough was ready. I opted to have things to go, so with a cheery farewell and assurance from the kitchen that he had put his heart and soul into making the dish for me, I toddled the short distance to my abode.
Once there I mixed the egg and set about eating. The recipe calls for a three cheese mix which I reckon was maybe cheddar, mozzarella and feta. Whatever the case, it was pretty delicious.
The dough was light as a feather and the ideal instrument for dipping in the cheesy goo. I can see entirely how this would become and absolute favourite staple. I was impressed.
So overall, I really liked Hungry Wolf. I think the intention is to add more Georgian dishes if their khachapuri connects with an audience. I’m sure it will so would urge you to head along and try it. They should be available on delivery services soon at which point you can enjoy this gooey delight from the confines of your own home.
Blythe scores Hungry Wolk
4/5 for food
3.5/5 for presentation
4/5 for service
3.5/5 for setting
giving an overall 15/20
I ate: cheeseburger, fries, cheeseboat
I wore: new jacket
Total bill: £17
Address: 16 Iona Street, Edinburgh EH6 8SF