The halls of 12 Picardy Place have been home to many, many restaurants down the years. I first diner here when it was the Hallion, then Martin Wishart at Home House, then Mark Greenaway, then Fish Eatery. And that’s in just a little over a decade.
It now trades as Steak Brasserie, a little sister to next door’s Steak. I’ve eaten at Steak a couple of times but haven’t really enjoyed it, so I hoped for better things from the Brasserie.
The room is still dominated by a large stylised portrait of Henry Raeburn which has been there as long as I can remember. The space is bright with an informal atmosphere in the brasserie style.
We had some issues with ordering in that a couple of my preferred items were unavailable but this was handled with little fuss by the bright and breezy front of house staff team.
I eventually settled upon the calamari to start then followed with the onglet. I added a side of creamed peas, leeks and bacon for good measure.
The calamari soon arrived. It took the form of very small squid rings battered in lightly crisp paprika batter. It was a decent opener but didn’t really quicken the pulse.
The main course was quite a different matter. Call it skirt, hanger, lombatello or onglet – this is a cut of many names – it’s typically a good hunk of flavourful meat. Treated poorly it can be a considerable jaw-ache to chew, but I was in luck.
This was beautifully prepared and as good a bistro steak as I’ve been served in the city. It was accurately cooked to medium rare, was beautifully seasoned, and it made me smile inside and out.
The chips packed good beefy notes, too, along with suitable crunch. I was glad I’d ordered the creamed peas as I’ve been light on green foods of late, but this was a slightly more workmanlike dish.
So overall, I was delighted with the steak at Steak Brasserie. This style of steak cookery which focusses on flavour derived from sensitive cooking of cheaper cuts is what I’m looking for the vast majority of the time when the meat craving arises. I’ll certainly be back and would recommend it to you next time a steak sounds like a plan.
Blythe scores Steak Brasserie
4/5 for food
3.5/5 for presentation
4/5 for setting
4/5 for service
giving an overall 15.5/20
I ate: calamari, onglet, dripping fries, creamed peas and leaks
I drank: white wine, red wine, water
I wore: retirement socks
Total bill: £41
Address: 12 Picardy Place, Edinburgh EH1 3JT