While my coronation endeavours will undoubtedly deliver the step change we’ve all been waiting for in our relationship with chicken, more conventional routes still exist. I explored one dead-end in a recent visit to KFC, but surely more rewarding experiences were lurking somewhere in the city?
On my recent travels around England and Wales the appearance of what you might call posh chicken shops was conspicuous. We don’t seem to have quite embraced the concept in Edinburgh just yet, but Spatch, which opened on Hunter Square a few months back, is at the forefront of attempting to pique our interest. I popped in to give it a look.
In the premises that were fleetingly a branch of Harry Ramsden’s, the interior of the narrow space features an open kitchen with the expected spit-roaster for their signature spatchcocked chickens.
I was seated in the smarly appointed front dining section. It was rather draughty, but I dare this will be offset by a full-stream kitchen. To be on the safe side, perhaps sit in the back if you feel the cold.
The menu is packed with puns with one of their chicken burgers called the Cluck Norris. I ordered that with a side of macaroni cheese bites.
Things took a while to arrive and when they did they looked a touch underwhelming.
The bites were rather cuboid and clunky looking. They were crisply coated but lacked seasoning and melty ooze. The accompanying barbecue sauce was decent but it was a weak dish.
The Cluck Norris did not live up to its strongman name. It was a dull and flavour-light chicken breast allegedly topped with two types of barbecued chicken meat and bacon. It lacked punch and the barbecue notes were deeply buried. It was very ordinary stuff.
So overall, Spatch didn’t make a strong case for itself. We have a select group of fine chicken purveyors at the moment – Buffalo Truck, Jones & Son, Feed are all excellent – so it was disappointing to find such mediocrity from a specialist chicken place. I doubt I’ll be back and I can’t see any reason for you to bother going either.
I ate: Cluck Norris, mac n cheese bites
I drank: espresso, water
I wore: blue stripes
Total bill: £17.85
Address: 3 Hunter Square, Edinburgh EH1 1QW