Spoon Cafe Bistro
I’m declaring another blindspot. Much in the same way as I can’t seem to get to grips with Passorn Brasserie, despite repeated exposures I can’t build an appreciation for Spoon Cafe Bistro on Nicolson Street.
Spoon was one of our first ever reviews so the time for a revisit was long overdue. I’d been back in the interim but my lukewarm original feeling had been reinforced rather than challenged.
Today’s visit was for lunch after no breakfast so my appetite was as sharp as my crisp flannels.
The dining space is eclectically decked out with a range of sizes and shapes of tables. I was seated slightly away from the main action at smart window seat.
The broad menu was augmented by some specials on the board, which also outlined the soups of the day. I was intrigued by beef and green split pea as a soup combo so chose that to start. I added their house smoked trout salad for good measure.
Both dishes arrived together, as agreed, in good time. They looked a little…underwhelming.
The soup was chunky to the point of being a dense puree. It had an oddly piquant edge. It was a hearty winter item – not unsuited to a typical Edinburgh summer’s day, I suppose – but bulky and substantial rather than packing much in the way of charm.
The main course looked washed out and dreary. It was battle of competing flavours with aromatic fennel competing against bitter grapefruit and chicory while the sweet smokiness of the trout was largely overwhelmed. There was a good idea buried in here but it was let down by unbalanced execution.
So overall, Spoon’s charms continued to be wasted on me. The service was conspicuously better than on previous trips but the food still doesn’t do it for me. But I feel it’s a place I just don’t get rather than it being just flat out bad – regular reader Lynda lists it has her favourite place in the city, for example – so I’ll designate it as a blindspot and move on.
I ate: beef and green split pea soup; house smoked trout salad
I drank: water
I wore: blue and grey
Total bill: £12
Address: 6A Nicolson Street, South Bridge, Old Town, Edinburgh EH8 9DH