Certain Edinburgh sites seem to be prone to high turnover and despite some places of fine vintage having passed through the spot, the corner of Henderson Street and Giles Street in Leith seems a real challenge to make work.
With the demise of VDeep, the latest to take a swing at things is Harmonium, from the team behind Mono and Stereo in Glasgow.
As with those places the food menu is entirely vegan. This is despite their menu writer’s ill-judged jokes about “ground hot beef” and “crispy chorizo” which I hope soon disappear in the heartening way they did from the Holy Cow menu.
The list has sections for starters, small plates, middles, burgers, pizzas, sides and desserts. I opted for one each from the starters, smalls and pizzas.
First up was panzanella. Replete with capers, this was a wonderfully fresh and zingy salad full of colour and vibrancy. I liked it a lot.
I followed with their oyster mushroom “scallops” which were presentationally fun and packed lots of good flavour. The samphire topping was delicious. But the allusion to scallops and crisp chorizo meant that there were some textural disappointments with what was otherwise a really high quality dish.
The main course pizza featured really good fennel “sausage”, and the base was lightly pillowy. The topping was really pleasantly spiced from green chillies. I enjoyed it.
So overall, while I was clearly irked by the menu descriptions, I very much enjoyed the food at Harmonium. The refit is very smart, service super-welcoming and the menu has plenty of strong dishes on it. I’d recommend it to you and look forward to trying other dishes from the menu on future visits.
Blythe scores Harmonium
4/5 for food
3.5/5 for presentation
4/5 for setting
4/5 for service
giving an overall 15.5/20
I ate: panzanella, mushroom “scallops”, roasted fennel “sausage” pizza
I drank: Neck Oil, water
I wore: mainly blue
Total bill: £25.40
Address: 60 Henderson Street, Edinburgh EH6 6BS