Black Pig and Oyster
The hospitality businesses down on Commercial Quay have taken quite a pasting of late with only the Michelin charms of The Kitchin and all-round appeal of Cafe Tartine enduring.
New in the slot that was International Starters for many years comes the Black Pig and Oyster, a Spanish restaurant showcasing…well, black pig, oysters and a focussed selection of tapas dishes.
It was a quiet midweek early evening so I thought I was on to a good chance of sampling things on the quiet and getting a feel for how they were doing, having only been open a couple of weeks.
The friendly waiter seated me near the kitchen where I immediately recognised the man in charge of the kitchen, chef Phil Lynch. This meant I got a slightly fuller look at the menu than I might normally have.
Given the name of the place, I wasn’t likely to stray too far off script so I opened with four oysters then followed with some black pig. On the waiter’s recommendation I chose the presa cut.
The oysters swiftly appeared. They offer them both raw and in a daily changing cooked style which today was tempura. I kept it simple with briny raw ones topped with a little piece of pickled shallot and microherbs. They proved a very good opener.
I’d guzzled pretty greedily so while my main course was prepared a little plate of pata negra, sliced freshly from the leg, appeared for me to munch upon. It was delightful.
The main course then promptly followed. It looked rather eye-catching with two bubbly pigskin crackers atop the deeply hued pork. The crackers were outstanding.
The pork was of excellent quality. The accompanying apple chutney cut through the richness to good effect and I really enjoyed the bed of red cabbage the meat sat upon. It was an excellent dish.
Chef knew that I’m not a dessert fan but brought over a dish they’d been playing with the presentation on. It featured a sweet rhubarb tortellini with ginger crumb. It was a little sweet for my palette but it’s a dish that will fly off the menu as it sounds great and continues the accomplished standard of cooking on display throughout.
So overall, I was hugely impressed by the Black Pig and Oyster. Given the track record of eateries in these spaces of late, the challenge they face is building an audience and making sure it’s one that returns and brings their friends. They have a strong opportunity to do this as what they’re offering is something new for Edinburgh. You should make a point of visiting at your earliest available opportunity.
Blythe scores The Black Pig and Oyster
4.5/5 for food
4/5 for presentation
4/5 for setting
4/5 for service
giving an overall 16.5/20
I ate: oysters, presa
I drank: water, cava, red wine, espresso
Total bill: £44.35
Address: 82 Commercial Quay Leith EH6 6LX