I’d had the restaurant at the Dunstane Hotel on my radar for a while but hadn’t had an occasion to visit despite it being relatively near my family home. When I finally got around to it, I found the place in transition away from the fine dining of the Skerries to something entirely less formal. I stuck around to give things a try, though.
A fuller revamped menu was due to launch the following week but tonight’s offering was still locally driven in its ingredients although options were fairly limited.
I started with the haggis bonbonbonbons which came with potato salad and Isle of Bute turnip chutney. I followed with their Orkney beef burger.
Service was warm and friendly throughout and the signature boutique hotel property is very stylish. It feels quite formal to me in a similar vein to The Bonham or Blackwood’s Grill so it will be interesting to see how their more casual dining menu will work here.
The starter soon arrived and for the second day running I was served two balls where I think three were needed. The haggis was very good but the accompaniments were a little lacklustre. It was a fair opening, though.
The burger was a good bit better. It was a huge meaty slab but packed good moisture and flavour. The cheese and smoky bacon toppings were strong. The chunky chips were routine.
Things were accompanied by conspicuously good and reasonably priced wines.
So overall, it was slightly hard to judge the Dunstane Hotel on tonight’s showing but it’s useful to note their change of direction. I saw enough to suggest it’s a place worthy of your attention so I will make a point to visit again when next in these parts.
I ate: haggis bonbonbonbons; burger
I drank: white wine, red wine
I wore: grey and blue
Total bill: £32.75
Address: 4 Wester Coates, Edinburgh EH12 5JQ