The Cavalry Club had pretty much run its course but rather than sticking around for another ten years of moribund dreariness, it bowed out in relative style at the start of February.
In its place has arisen a partially formed new idea from the team behind the New Chapter. Called Otro, we visited when they’d been open just a few days. The main entry level bar and dining room were up and running, but further work on the downstairs of the property was ongoing. The place was proving popular with curious walk-ins, though, so we thought it fair enough to consider reviewing.
I was joined this evening by Vicky who is an occasional contributor to the site having previously reviewed The Scottish Cafe & Restaurant.
As with the New Chapter, the emphasis is on smartly presented dishes showcasing local produce across a range of styles. The menu felt broad, coherent and well thought out. We took a moment to contemplate things over a martini in their bar area before moving to our table in the main dining space.
We settled upon starters of mushrooms on toast topped with a poached egg, and salmon tartare. I followed with the ribeye steak while Vicky opted for the sea trout with
Dishes promptly arrived looking pretty good. The salmon brought together a lovely range of textures and flavours for an accomplished dish. The yolk of the egg could have used a little more ooze, but the selection of the mushrooms was varied and satisfying. They were very good openers.
The sea trout was very neat and tidy. A smartly cooked piece of fish sat atop a verdant parsley mash. The accompanying mussels and sea vegetables sat in a lightly creamy broth. It was an accomplished dish.
The steak, from John Henderson, was accurately cooked and one of the better steaks I’ve had of late. The chips were good, too, although the additional side we sampled of excitingly titled new potatoes were slightly less convincing, but it was another very good dish.
So overall, we were impressed with Otro. For a restaurant so early in its lifecycle it felt very settled and assured. The dishes we sampled were of very pleasing quality. The plan is for the place to be open from early in the morning then throughout the day. This is an ambition that others – the Riparian Rooms springs to mind – have tried and failed to realise, so it will be interesting to see whether their high class approach can sustain throughout an all-day offering. Whatever the case, I look forward to many future visits.
Blythe scores Otro
4/5 for food
3.5/5 for presentation
4/5 for setting
4/5 for service
giving an overall 15.5/20
Today’s quarters were: Vicky, Blythe
We ate: salmon tartare, mushrooms on toast; ribeye steak; sea trout; selection of macarons
We drank: martinis, white wine, red wine, espresso, water
We wore: red, brown
Total bill: £69.15
Address: 22 Coates Crescent, Edinburgh EH3 7AF