On a quiet Wednesday evening I felt the need for a Leith expedition so headed to the Shore for dinner at The Shore.
Part of the chain that includes the two Fishers restaurants, one of which is just next door, it’s a place I’ve visited for drinks and Sunday jazz at various points down the years. But I’d never visited for dinner in their welcoming little dining room before now.
With seafood to the fore, as expected, I was conscious to order to best advantage so opened with their own whisky smoked salmon, then opted for the monkfish to follow. This was preceded by fresh bread and excellent herby garlic dip.
The starter arrived looking mighty bonnie. It was an excellent dish with well-presented fish on a beetroot remoulade, citrus kick from a lemon cream and pickled cucumber with dill. It was a damn fine opener.
The main course was a complete let down by comparison. A melee of three pieces of monkfish with butterflied prawns and mussels all in a lightly curried broth, its main elements had been flour dredged to poor effect. Rather than adding light crispness it just made things floury and heavy. It felt like a dish that needed a rethink.
So overall, I liked The Shore but ran into a poor main course so was rewarded with a slightly patchy experience. It felt much more settled and relaxed than the other members of the chain, so it would be the one I’d recommend, but I would steer clear of the monkfish dish until it’s reworked.
Blythe scores The Shore
3/5 for food
4/5 for presentation
4/5 for setting
4/5 for service
giving an overall 15/20
I ate: whisky cured salmon; monkish in seafood broth
I drank: white wines, water, espresso
I wore: black suit jacket
Total bill: £35.20
Address: 3 The Shore, Leith, Edinburgh EH6 6QW