Taking over where Kama Sutra traded for a good while, Wildwood opened just a few weeks back. The exterior proudly proclaims “Grill, Pizza, Pasta, Grill” which didn’t exactly fill me full of confidence, but it seemed like it was worth a go.
Part of a largish chain with over fifty outlets across the UK, Wildwood is not to be confused with Wild Wood – now The Birchwood – in Marchmont, or Wildmanwood, the outstanding local pizza place. It will likely be confused with the latter by some though, particularly given the partial crossover in menus.
The interior feels generic and derivative, sort of in the style of a low-rent Carluccio’s. The faux distressed wood-panelling feels a tired trick and the relentlessly cheery, slightly too loud pop-pap soundtrack soon began to grate.
From the grill/pizza/pasta/grill driven menu I opted for their mushroom and spinach pizza which was served “giganti”. I sampled their house white wine which was ordinary.
It was quite good eating, too, with a light and crisp base. The olives were notably good; the mushrooms were notably watery and mediocre, which was a shame.
So overall, charmless interior aside Wildwood will likely do solidly good business in this prime footfall location. It doesn’t offer anything new or particularly interesting but it looks to be another reliable chain for family-friendly fun. Perhaps there are hidden strengths on the grill or pasta or grill menu so I will check things out again later in 2017 before reaching a firm, scoring verdict.
I ate: spinach and mushroom pizza
I drank: white wine, water
I wore: tweed and denim
Total bill: £ 15.15
Address: 105-109 Lothian Road, Edinburgh, EH3 9AN