The Bakers Arms –
SADLY NOW CLOSED
After years of slowly descending towards the bottom of the Indian restaurant pile, the Raj finally gave up the gosht a couple of years ago, although it has emerged phoenix-like from the ashes in Blackhall. Following it in the spacious premises at the end of The Shore came Agoon Pani, but it was short-lived.
After a speedy turnaround, the place has been transformed into a welcoming pub bistro, with bread and beer to the fore, called the Bakers Arms. I popped in to give it an early look.
The fabric of the place is much the same as before with a raised area that will likely be the main dining space, and an entrance level surround where the bar and kitchen are located. It feels smart and welcoming.
For a place that mentions beer and bread so prominently, it was curious that these were the areas with which I had slight niggles. Their beer selection although strong on local stuff – Williams, Drygate, Paolozzi, Pilot – is solid rather than spectacular, and rather than baking in-house they’re using the admittedly excellent Breadshare. Perhaps my expectations were calibrated incorrectly and certainly in the case of the beer they’re starting from a good foundation from which to develop over time.
For lunch I started with the broccoli and stilton soup which was accompanied by signature Breadshare multi-seed bread. The soup was really well crafted stuff and I enjoyed it very much.
The main course burger was slightly too much in the Cambridge Bar mince-mountain style for my tastes, but the buffalo meat still packed good flavour and the bun had excellent structural integrity. The chips were first-rate.
So overall, I really liked the Bakers Arms. Their focus on warmly welcoming pub fare showcasing excellent local produce is good to see. I’ll certainly be back and would recommend you take time to visit.
Blythe scores The Bakers Arms
3.5/5 for food
3.5/5 for presentation
4/5 for setting
4/5 for service
giving an overall 15/20
I ate: broccoli and stilton soup; burger and chips
I drank: sparkly water
I wore: grey
Total bill: £16
Address: 87-91 Henderson Street, Edinburgh, EH6 6ED