Brian Maule at Le Chardon D’Or
I spend a good amount of time wandering up the road between Queen Street station and the top of Bath Street in Glasgow. On that ramble I’ve walked past Brian Maule at Le Chardon D’Or countless times. I’d made a note to visit at some point and finally made good on that on a Monday early evening.
A smart dining space kitted out in typical bistro style, the menu is aiming a notch or two higher than that with a market menu, full a la carte and tasting menu available on my visit.
With an extensive wine list, there was a lot of reading to get through so I ordered a glass of fino sherry to aid my deliberations.
After toying with many dishes, the best path to success presented itself via three courses on the set menu. I started with the beef carpaccio, followed by lamb with confit beetroot. I expressed the likelihood that cheese would follow which it did.
For wine, I chose two of their three reds by the glass, with a carmenere to start and a garnacha to follow. Both were solid selections.
The starter was preceded by an amuse bouche of crab with dill and superfluous bitter leaves. The crab was smartly prepared. It was a good opener.
The starter also had a topping of mixed leaves that played no useful function. The raw spring onion didn’t add much either, but the rustic carpaccio was pretty decent otherwise.
The main course contained some good elements with the lamb flavour-packed. The potato cake was smartly executed. The beetroot and mushrooms were routine. The green beans didn’t really need to be on the plate. The dish didn’t really come together in a coherent way.
To round things out I sampled their selection of French and Scottish cheeses. This was a routine cheeseboard comprising Strathdon blue, Comté and Clava brie with a nice array of biscuits. There was no chutney or similar which rendered the plentiful crackers rather pointless.
So overall, Brian Maule’s restaurant didn’t really stack up for me. There’s clearly a good culinary brain at work, but in the dishes I sampled there wasn’t much that will live long in the memory. What I experienced was solid fare that just didn’t thrill. It wasn’t anywhere near the fine dining bracket. Perhaps I will visit again before settling on a firm verdict as I have a feeling I didn’t catch it at its best. Or maybe it’s just one of those places whose charms are wasted on me.
I ate: carpaccio of Scotch beef, lamb compote, cheeseboard
I drank: fino, carmenere, garnacha, water, espresso
I wore: grey and blue
Total bill: £39.50
Address: 176 West Regent Street, Glasgow G2 4RL