I’d been asked by one of the office gastronomes whether he should forsake his preference for Rollo and Rollo Broughton in the name of trying DRG’s recently opened Cadiz, on George Street. I advised him to stick to Rollo as I suspected Cadiz wouldn’t offer much to thrill, but never one to rest on such prejudices I made a point of visiting shortly thereafter.
DRG have just announced a major new development in Edinburgh so are a brand in the ascendency, at least in terms of their market moves. I quite enjoyed visits to Amarone and Barolo Grill, but I’ve never been a huge fan of Di Maggio’s or Cafe Andaluz, with the latter having a branch just below Cadiz’s first floor premises.
They’ve clearly spent a bob or two on the place as it has a smart contemporary feel to it, with tiling and mirrors giving the clean feel you’d expect from a seafood-focussed place. I liked it.
At lunchtime they offer a set price menu (the full a la carte is available, also) for £14.95 for two courses, which sounded about right to me. I added a couple of Cumbrae oysters (£2 each) as a prelude to seafood bisque followed by baked seafood.
The soup and oysters arrived together, as requested. The oysters were large but had been inaccurately shucked meaning they were bereft of their salty liquer. This made them a fairly ordinary eat.
The soup was similarly disappointing. It was just a thin seafood-infused tomato broth. It was completely uninspiring.
The baked seafood was essentially a seafood stew with an array of chunky fish and mussels interspersed with saffron potatoes and topped with a manchego crust. It was well-seasoned and rustic, but drifted towards unsophisticated. Much like the soup it was pretty spiritless stuff.
So overall, Cadiz is very smart and friendly, but needs a big improvement in the kitchen to match the front of house strengths. The dishes I had were meek and ordinary. I hope they can improve things as it’s a promising spot that deserves to be occupied by a quality offering.
Blythe scores Cadiz
2/5 for food
2.5/5 for presentation
3.5/5 for service
4/5 for setting
giving an overall 12/20
I ate: oysters, shellfish bisque, baked seafood
I drank: water
I wore: pinstripes
Total bill: £18.95
Address: 77b George Street, Edinburgh EH2 3EE