I’d heard a tip that Paesano Pizza, on Glasgow’s Miller Street, was doing good work. I’d walked past it a couple of times and found it packed to the gunwales so was glad to be able to pop in for a lunchtime visit.
The room, which holds maybe 130, was still comfortably more than half full on a Wednesday lunchtime, so they’re clearly doing brisk business.
The style of the place is very much like Civerino’s but on a much more expansive scale, with two large wood-fired ovens which have been built specially by Acunto of Naples. It’s a really impressive space and hints at really impressive food.
The menu is focussed with a small core selection of pizzas augmented by a daily changing specials board. I was lured in by talk of a smoked cheese, mushroom and borlotti bean topped beauty, from the latter, so ordered that.
Cooked in the 500°C oven, it was with me as soon as you’d expect. The crust was light and puffed with the rest of the base thin and decidedly floppy, much in the way the initial pizzas were at Dough.
It proved very satisfying eating with simple, high quality ingredients coming together for very successful mouthfuls. The floppy base made for messy eating, but this somehow added to the experience.
In a phase where Edinburgh seems to be creating pointlessly gaudy bauble restaurants like Badger & Co, it’s rather refreshing to see Glasgow putting together an absolutely winning end-to-end restaurant experience like this.
Some will no doubt hail it as serving the best pizza in Scotland. I don’t agree with that – Origano and a couple of others in Edinburgh I’ve mentioned above are serving better pizza, I reckon – but in the same way that I think Bread Meats Bread is the best burger place in Scotland, Paesano is the best place for pizza I’ve found in Scotland so far.
So overall, I was hugely impressed with Paesano. It’s doing very good pizza in the classic Neapolitan style with high quality ingredients. I’d like to see the pizza bases a little crisper but this is a minor quibble with what was a superbly enjoyable dining spot. Visit soon.
Blythe scores Paesano
4/5 for pizza
4/5 for service
4.5/5 for setting
4/5 for service
giving an overall 16.5/20
I ate: provola affumicato, mushrooms, sugo and borlotti bean pizza
I drank: water
I wore: action footwear
Total bill: £8
Address: 94 Miller Street, Merchant City, Glasgow G1 1DT