I was sad to hear that Mam Kangu’s Delicacy on Dalry Road had closed – although with some prospect of a relocation – as we’re pretty light on west African cuisine in the city.
I was heartened to spot the arrival Wul-Mamen on Clerk Street, where The Cholas once traded, so popped in to give it a go.
The welcome was warm from the friendly chap who looked after both front of house and the kitchen work. I took a seat at one of the simply appointed tables.
The brief menu majored on hearty dishes like tagines, chicken domoda, and lamb yassa. I opted for the latter, which was accompanied by rice.
It took a moment or two for the food to appear, which was understandable given it was a one man band, but the lively background music kept me amused.
The yassa was brimming with tempting aromas when it arrived. The lamb proved profuse, chunky and flavour-packed with strong tang from the mustard and onions in which it had been cooked. I’d opted for medium spicing, which was proved just about right for my tastes.
The rice was less impressive, but did the job of rounding out the dish in decent fashion.
So overall, I was pleased with Wul-Mamen. This type of reasonably priced fare has a good chance of building an appreciative audience in this part of town, so I hope it does well. I’d certainly be happy to visit again next time I’m looking for a hearty west African feed.
Blythe scores Wul-Mamen
3.5/5 for food
3/5 for presentation
4/5 for service
3/5 for setting
giving an overall 13.5/20
I ate: lamb yassa and rice
I drank: water
I wore: www.tieclub.co.uk tie
Total bill: £6
Address: 63 Clerk Street Edinburgh EH8 9JQ/now at 87 St Leonard’s Street EH8 9QY