Where Toast had traded for a good while, Wild Wood has recently taken over. Looking to plough much the same furrow, with cafe options during the day and more brunchy and restaurant fare at weekends, I thought I’d give it a go on a blustery Sunday evening.

Having had a very brisk Sunday, they had run out of a few dishes when I arrived, but I was in the mood for the type of autumnal fare that remained so ordered the pigeon to start, then followed with the beef cheek bourguignon.

The friendly and extremely polite waitress was soon bringing the starter. I really didn’t like the crockery on which the dish was served as it was altogether too busy. Rocket was also there for no good reason.

The pigeon was a little overcooked, the lentils were fine, but there was no sauce to bring required moisture, flavour and unity to the dish. It was a weak opener.

The main course was considerably better with really tasty beef and nicely smooth mash. The celeriac puree was rather rustic and didn’t add much, nor did the out-of-context rocket, once more.

I rounded things out with really good espresso from Mr Eion. It was the clear highlight of this visit.

So overall, Wild Wood looks to be off to a slightly shaky start. There was much to like about the atmosphere and the service but there were several mistakes from the kitchen.

They have a good core to build upon, but the execution of dishes needs to be upped by a good 10-20% for the food to really sing. I’ll come back and deliver a scoring verdict in a few months, once they’ve established themselves on a surer footing.

I ate: pigeon breast with puy lentils; beef cheek bourguignon

I drank: red wine, water

I wore: skinny tie

Total bill: £26.10