Luckily today I found the former in the shape of Funky Oaky Smoky at the Tram Stop Market.
Purveyors of fine smoked beef products cooked in beer they brew themselves, this sounded like a very intruiging offering.
From their focussed selection of brisket sandwich, pulled beef sandwich, or brisket and porter stew I chose the latter (£5).
The friendly and enthusiastic counter man was soon ladling generous spoonfuls of rich, chunky broth into a takeaway container, then slicing a couple of bits of good bread to accompany it. I was soon on my way, munching as I walked.
It proved very good eating with tremendous depth of flavour from the light smokiness and rich beery stewing juices. It was cracking stuff.
My only slightly quibble was that I think it needed a little more chunky veg or something starchy in the mix, as it lacked a tertiary textural element beyond the chunky beef and smoothly satisfying broth. But that’s the kind of refinement that will come in time, no doubt.
So overall, there was lots to like at Funky Oaky Smoky. Their home-smoked delights are likely to build an appreciative audience. I look forward to visiting again to see how things develop over the coming months and years.