Slighhouse

A little piece of my nostalgic heart broke with the news that Bar Kohl was closing to re-brand as the Slighhouse. I’d visited for food fairly recently and not been massively impressed, but so many nights from my exuberant youth involved a brush with this place and its dubious drinks menu. Farewell Turktini, my old friend.

Anyhoo, what has replaced it is a smart new offering, heavy on black, white and pared-back design, with cocktails again to the fore, but with the class turned up a good few notches, and an on-trend menu of grazing and sharing dishes.

I dined with Amy, the shadowy eminence grise of the Union of Genius soup empire, who had previously joined at The Real Junk Food Project.

Their lunch deal was described on their signage as “soup – cornbread – plate”. Being a huge fan of plate I couldn’t wait to tuck in. More helpfully, on the menu this selection is described as Hutton’s Express Lunch, which ties into the geologist who has inspired both the bar’s name and some of the design elements of the interior. It also became clearer what plate meant, as the main body of their menu is small plate dishes for sharing.

I opted for the lunch deal, which today featured celeriac and apple soup, accompanied by cornbread. For my plate I chose seasonal asparagus with a soft boiled egg and seeds. Amy added to our assembled dishes with: smoked brie, buttenut squash and peppers; beetroot, chorizo and salt cod fritters; and a bigger portion of cornbread served with bacon and lime butter.

Dishes arrived as they were ready. Everything looked very bonnie with the salt cod balls particularly eye-catching. I’m no afficionado of cornbread (I’ll need to bring MJ along to offer her expert opinion) but we were both impressed, although the limey butter wasn’t quite so successful.

The salt cod balls were quite impressive, though if they’d been just a notch more punchy they would have rendered the presence of chorizo superfluous. The asparagus was fresh and had good crunch. The yolk of the egg could have been a little oozier, though. The soup was a solidly good version of this classic combo.

Amy had a go at one the cocktails and it was given the thumbs up, particularly when blueberries were discovered buried in its leafy depths.

So overall, there was a lot to like about the Slighhouse. While there were some minor quibbles with the dishes, they were still attractive combinations executed to a very good standard. I’d be happy to point you in the direction of the place and look forward to visiting again, soon.

Scores
Blythe scores the Slighhouse
4/5 for food
4/5 for presentation
3.5/5 for setting
3.5/5 for service
giving an overall 15/20

Today’s questers were: Amy, Blythe

We ate: butternut squash, pepper and smoked brie; cornbread with bacon and lime; asparagus with soft boiled egg; cornbread; celeriac and apple soup; salt cod balls with chorizo and beetroot

We drank: water, Fifteen Ways to Say Cat cocktail

We wore: flowery top, Friday suit

Total bill: £30