I was sad to hear that the Water of Leith Cafe Bistro was closing down, earlier this year, but was reassured by a message from owner Ana to confirm they were simply moving “up river”. I promised to visit in their new premises and made good on that, today.

Taking over where reliable little local Italian Luigi’s had previously traded, the place is bright and welcoming. This was accented by floods of autumnal sunshine during my stay.

Sensibly, they’ve transplanted the menu from the previous place and while they get to grips with the new place will continue with their familiar blend of Scottish and French bistro classics. Everything feels remarkably settled, so this has clearly been a successful approach.

As on my visit to their old place, I had their Cullen skink to start, which was as excellent as ever. I followed with a croque madame.

I’d had great bechemel in the croque I had at the Bistrot at L’Institut Francais, then a more sophisticated presentation of a croque at La Barantine. This one brought together the best elements of both, then topped it with an egg and served it with good skinny fries. It was an absolute winner.

So overall, I’m happy to see the Water of Leith’s transition to Canonmills has been completed with considerable elan. The welcome is one of the warmest in the city and it’s a place I really enjoy. I’d recommend a visit at your earliest convenient opportunity.

Scores
Blythe scores the Water of Leith Cafe Bistro
4/5 for food
4/5 for presentation
4/5 for service
4/5 for setting
giving an overall 16/20

I ate: Cullen skink, croque madame

I drank: catarratto

I wore: denim trousers

Total bill: £16.40